2025年12月1日 星期一

Frida Kahlo, Whose Self-Portraits Spoke to the Soul.弗麗達.卡洛 (Frida Kahlo)


Frida Kahlo, Whose Self-Portraits Spoke to the Soul

She defined herself by her painting, especially when she painted herself. Revisit the life of Kahlo who died 62 years ago.

 Frida Kahlo, Whose Self-Portraits Spoke to the Soul.弗麗達.卡洛 (Frida Kahlo)

Today, we bring you another focus challenge, inviting you to spend uninterrupted time looking at a piece of art. This painting — “The Two Fridas” — by Frida Kahlo was made in 1939, and keep in mind that it’s nearly life size, at almost six feet by six feet.

(These challenges are published on the first Monday of each month. Sign up here if you’d like to be notified.)

Think about these questions as you look:

  • How are the two figures alike? How are they different?

  • What emotions do you see Kahlo trying to convey?

  • Do you relate to anything in the painting?



Tomorrow the exhibition "Frida Kahlo. Self-Portrait with Monkey. From the Museo Dolores Olmedo, Xochimilco, Mexico" will be opened. It is the first exhibition of this famous Mexican artist at the Hermitage.





弗麗達.卡洛 (Frida Kahlo)


Frida Kahlo is now considered one of Mexico's greatest artists - Emeritus Professor of Latin American Art at Essex Valerie Fraser helps explain on BBC Radio Four's In Our Time:http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b06125zc


Melvyn Bragg and guests discuss Frida Kahlo.
BBC.CO.UK

Happy birthday to Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, born on this day in 1907. Celebrate with this portrait of the artist.
Nickolas Muray (American, born Hungary, 1892–1965) | Frida Kahlo | 1939 | Photo by Nickolas Muray, © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives

Mary-Anne Martin Fine Art’s excellent display of 20th-century South American drawings at 23 East 73rd Street includes a fantastic if anomalous drawing by Frida Kahlo titled “The True Tease” (1946). A dense, extended doodle, it embeds a lexicon of Kahlo motifs — a hand, veins, some eyes, several breasts — in a geodesic constellation fraught with stars and spirals that seem straight out of late Kandinsky.













Frida Kahlo Self-Portrait with Monkey 1938
Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Monkey 1938
Frida Kahlo and her husband both referred to her as ‘the great hider-away’, as if she were a mystery-maker. Fifty years after her death she is idolised for having revealed essential truths about all kinds of female experience, yet partly mythologising her life. Germaine Greer explores the life of the Patron saint of lipstick and lavender feminism
Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera both used to refer to her as ‘la gran ocultadora’. The expression is an odd one, meaning ‘the great hider-away’, as if she were a mystery-maker. Fifty years after her death, Kahlo is credited with having displayed in art for the first time the interior reality of a woman’s life. She is idolised for having revealed essential truths about all kinds of female experience – about disablement, rejection, miscarriage, suffering, Mexican-ness, Jewishness, homosexuality, revolution, subversion, devotion – in 200 or so coloured images, painted in oils on metal or hardboard, and occasionally canvas, the greater part of them depicting or purporting to depict the painter herself.
As a self-portraitist Kahlo fits right into the tradition of women’s painting. Her contemporaries include other practitioners of the same genre, Leonora Carrington and Leonor Fini, for example. Since the dawn of Western art, women have painted many more self-portraits than their male counterparts; indeed, a significant proportion of their rather small number are known to us only from a single surviving self-portrait of the artist as a beautiful young woman. A woman painter was a curiosity of just the kind that collectors wanted in their cabinets. Gallant patrons complimented them by asking for no other subjects from their hand but their own fair selves, and an artist such as Angelika Kauffmann, to name just one, was in no position to refuse. Like Kahlo, she painted herself time and again, in a variety of costumes, sometimes as an allegorical figure, as Kahlo does. What is not clear is whether the women portrayed are faces or masks; whether the reality is not inevitably ocultada.
在卡羅的半身自畫像中,姿勢幾乎總是相同的:雙肩正對觀者,與畫框平行;頭部側轉四分之一,通常朝向左肩;雙眼直視觀者,目光堅定不移。臉部毛髮通常被誇張化——眉毛在鼻樑上方連成一線,形成著名的連眉,上唇也明顯長滿了濃密的黑色絨毛。從卡羅的照片中可以很容易地判斷出這幅肖像與藝術家本人的相似程度,而卡羅的照片數量遠遠超過了她的畫作。當她意識到鏡頭的存在時,她會盡力重現畫中形象略微側轉的頭部和不苟言笑的眼神。她很少讓自己的臉部照片表達出身份以外的任何訊息,照片的風格如同護照照片一般程式化,只露出一隻耳朵。所有的肖像都以同樣的語氣說著:「我是弗里達·卡羅」。這就是她的成就——弗里達·卡羅畢生的表演。在這一點上,她也延續了女性藝術家作為異類現象的傳統:羅莎爾芭·卡列拉和安吉莉卡·考夫曼只是當時被稱為“女畫家”的眾多藝術家中的兩位,她們必須通過演奏樂器、唱歌以及創作藝術作品來取悅贊助人。

說卡羅是史上第一位真正的行為藝術家,而且她的表演貫穿一生,並且她不知疲倦地年復一年、日復一日地進行著,這絕非誇張。她投入在角色扮演的裝扮上,其精力至少與繪畫創作本身不相上下。她還精心佈置了一個合適的場景,擺放著各種奇特的道具——動物、鮮花、床上的石膏骷髏、瓶中的胎兒,以及構成科約阿坎別墅的所有其他奇特物件和幻象。她也創作了一篇文本,作為表演的伴奏,並最終以此紀念這場表演——一篇選擇性地、部分神話化的弗里達·卡羅傳記。麥當娜和尚保羅高緹耶都是她的粉絲,這並不令人意外。他們都是表演藝術家,都像卡羅一樣,以操控同樣的素材為生。卡羅或許會為她的家人(她沒有給他們留下任何畫作)成功地將她的名字註冊為商標而感到高興,但如果她能看到fridakahlo.us網站上銷售的那些廉價無用的服裝和配飾,她一定會義憤填膺。

與弗里達·卡羅現象頗為相似的是她同時代的“巴西性感女神”卡門·米蘭達的職業生涯。米蘭達原名瑪麗亞·多·卡莫·米蘭達·達·庫尼亞,1909年出生於葡萄牙的一個省份。和卡羅一樣,米蘭達粗俗、迷人、口無遮蔽、不敬、熱情奔放,而且身材嬌小。卡洛發展出一種特瓦坎服飾的變體,而米蘭達則借鑒並誇張了巴伊亞水果小販的服飾。卡洛的繪畫語言源自於民間藝術形式;米蘭達則借鏡了薩爾瓦多貧民窟的舞曲。與卡洛一樣,米蘭達在美國也廣受歡迎;1940年,薩克斯百貨公司推出了一系列以她標誌性的厚重珠串和誇張頭飾為靈感的服飾珠寶。與卡洛一樣,米蘭達也創作詩歌和繪畫。與卡洛一樣,她英年早逝,膝下無子,經歷了多年的苦難。與卡洛不同的是,她沒有嫁給一位民族英雄;人們普遍認為,她的白人丈夫虐待了她,而且在她去世前多年,她也像卡洛一樣,嚴重依賴毒品。如今,世界各大藝術機構正在舉辦卡洛的回顧展,以表彰她的藝術成就。在巴西,米蘭達的巴伊亞時尚正在復興,EMI-Odeon巴西公司也重新製作並發行了她六小時的音樂作品。然而,人們卻從未將她們進行比較。這兩位傑出的女性,儘管有許多共同之處,卻始終生活在不同的世界。

奧蘭可能並非弗里達·卡羅的忠實擁躉,但在許多方面,她的藝術實踐是對這位墨西哥藝術家的先例的拓展。從1960年代她開始拍攝自己的身體,如同雕塑一般,奧蘭就一直對自身的形像以及改造形象的能力著迷。她曾以聖母瑪利亞和聖奧蘭的形象示人,用自己嫁妝中的床單製作服裝,最後甚至訴諸手術。卡羅的傳記作者們一直對她頻繁的手術感到困惑,並質疑這些手術是否真的必要。奧蘭的手術表演始於1979年,當時她被診斷出子宮外孕,需要緊急手術。在她進入手術室之前,她已經安排好一台攝影機記錄整個過程,並將錄影帶以最快的速度送往里昂藝術中心,在那裡立即放映,以一種非同尋常的方式重現了卡洛1932年創作的《亨利福特醫院》。卡洛在手術後畫了自己處於截石位、流血的形象;奧蘭則在手術過程中即時讓自己躺在手術台上。





Frida Kahlo Self-Portrait with Small Monkey 1945
Frida Kahlo
Self-Portrait with Small Monkey 1945
© 2005 Banco de Mexico Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Museums Trust and INBAL
In Kahlo’s bust-length self-portraits, the pose is almost always the same: shoulders square on to the viewer, parallel to the picture frame; head a quarter turned, usually towards the left shoulder; eyes looking back to the viewer in a direct, unwavering stare. The hairiness of the face is usually exaggerated – the eyebrows meet over the nose in the famous unibrow, and the upper lip is conspicuously furred with dark down. How closely this icon resembled the artist can be easily judged from photographs of Kahlo, of which there are many more than there are works by her hand. When she was aware of the camera she did her best to reproduce the slight head turn and the unsmiling stare of her painted image. She seldom allowed images of her face to express anything beyond her identity, in a version as stylised as a passport photo, showing the obligatory one ear. All the portraits say, in the same tone of voice: ‘I am Frida Kahlo’. This is her achievement – the lifelong performance of Frida Kahlo. In this too she remains part of the tradition of the female artist as outlandish phenomenon: Rosalba Carriera and Angelica Kauffmann are just two of the ‘paintresses’ (as they were called at the time) who were obliged to entertain their patrons by playing musical instruments and singing, as well as making artworks
It is no small praise to say that Kahlo was the first ever true performance artist, that the performance lasted all her life long, and that she was indefatigable in presenting it, year on year, day by day. At least as much creative energy went into dressing the part as in drawing and painting it. Fashioning herself also involved the creation of an appropriate setting with intriguing props – animals, flowers, a plaster skeleton atop her bed, a foetus in a bottle and all the other impedimenta and phantasmagoria that made up the house at Coyoacan. She also generated a text to accompany and eventually to commemorate the performance, the selective and partly mythologised account of Frida Kahlo. One is not surprised to find that Madonna is a fan, or Jean Paul Gaultier. Both are performers and both live by manipulating the same materials as Kahlo. She might be delighted that her family, to whom she left no paintings, has succeeded in registering her name as a trademark, though if she could see the shapeless cheap garments and accessories marketed on the world wide web by fridakahlo.us, she would be outraged.
A seductive parallel with the Frida Kahlo phenomenon is the career of her exact contemporary, the ‘Brazilian bombshell’ Carmen Miranda, born Maria do Carmo Miranda da Cunha in provincial Portugal in 1909. Like Kahlo, Miranda was vulgar, charming, foul-mouthed, irreverent, exuberant and tiny. While Kahlo developed a variant on Tehuacan costume, Miranda adopted and exaggerated that of the fruit vendors of Bahia. Kahlo’s pictorial language was derived from popular art forms; Miranda adapted the dance music of the favelas of Salvador. Like Kahlo, Miranda found favour in the United States; in 1940 Saks brought out a line of costume jewellery based on the heavy beads and extravagant headgear that she had made her trademark. Like Kahlo, Miranda composed poems and painted. Like Kahlo, she died young and childless after years of bitter suffering. Unlike Kahlo, she was not married to a national hero; it is generally thought that her gringo husband abused her, and that years before she died she was, like Kahlo, heavily drug-dependant. Kahlo is now being honoured by retrospective exhibitions in the world’s great art houses; in Brazil Miranda’s Bahian fashions are being revived, and EMI-Odeon Brazil has remastered and issued six hours of her music. Yet the instructive parallel is never drawn. These two remarkable women, with so much in common, remain in separate worlds.
Orlan is probably not a great fan of Frida Kahlo, yet in many ways her art practice is an elaboration on the Mexican’s precedent. From the beginning of her career in the 1960s when she photographed her body as if it were sculpture, Orlan has remained fascinated by her own image and her power to modify it, portraying herself in the guise of the Madonna and as Sainte Orlan, creating costumes by using the sheets from her own trousseau and, ultimately, by recourse to surgery. Kahlo’s biographers have been puzzled by her frequent operations, and have questioned whether they were really necessary. Orlan’s surgical performances began in 1979 when she was diagnosed as having an ectopic pregnancy necessitating an emergency procedure. By the time the artist was in the operating theatre she had arranged for a video camera to record the event, and for the tapes to be ferried as fast as they were recorded to the arts centre in Lyon, where they were immediately screened in an extraordinary updating of Kahlo’s Henry Ford Hospital of 1932. Kahlo painted herself in the lithotomy position and bleeding after the event; Orlan had herself portrayed in the stirrups in real time during the event. The difference is no more than one of epoch and available technology. The shock value in the different contexts is the same.
The French artist’s first operation was the precursor of the nine surgical performances that make up La Réincarnation de Sainte Orlan, in which, in much the same spirit as Kahlo exaggerated her unibrow and the dark brown fuzz on her upper lip, Orlan acquired two bumps on her forehead and the chin of the Botticelli Venus. The procedures were all photographed and recorded on video with live commentary by the artist herself, watching completely unmoved as her face was sliced open, turned inside out, scraped and remodelled. In the following days she would pose, immaculately coiffed and made up, for glamour shots of her horribly bruised face. This is very reminiscent of the woman who made a personal appearance at the opening of her one-man show in Mexico City in 1953 in her hospital bed, specially transported to the gallery for the purpose. All Kahlo’s appropriations were stylish; the names she dropped were the names to drop. Just so, when Orlan went under the knife, she had Paco Rabanne and Issey Miyake design clothes for her and the surgical staff, and poets and musicians accompanied the procedure. In Orlan’s carnal art, the events portrayed actually happen, while her predecessor insisted that she was not portraying dreams as a Surrealist might, but showing her reality.
To consider Kahlo as a painter only is to confuse one part of the performance for the whole and, moreover, to find her wanting. As a maker of two-dimensional images she is, despite the vast range of motifs she includes, deliberately unsophisticated. She does not want anyone viewing her work to be sidetracked by the paint quality or seduced by the composition. The paintings function as advertisements; they are the hoardings announcing the stages in the performance. The notion of art that Kahlo acquired along with Diego Rivera was fundamentally didactic, as were the Mexican ex-voto paintings which defined the narrative strategies that she would eventually use. The Kahlo icons are arresting without being interesting from a painterly point of view. The shock effect is not derived from the treatment of the objects depicted, or from any drama or energy compressed within the composition, but is felt simply as a consequence of identifying the motifs, as it were, in a diagram. That these are drawn from a vast range of sources, mythological, anthropological, historical, metaphysical, pyschoanalytical and folkloreistical, is only to be expected. To claim that these vast realms are explored when they are simply sampled, is to go too far.
Within the pièce d’identité formula there are not-so-subtle falsifications; no human neck was ever as long as Frida Kahlo in her self-portraits. We know from photographs that her shoulders were narrow and sloping; those in the painted images are usually square and broad. By such unsubtle shifts, while making herself recognisable by the trademark eyebrows and moustache, Kahlo also makes herself monumental. She may have wanted her public to believe that she painted what came into her head ‘without any other consideration’; in fact, she did as every painter does – she produced what she wanted others to see. The formulaic reduction of her face functions in the same way as any icon: as a mnemonic, rendering it memorable. The fixed immobility of the likeness signifies eternity. Revealing though the strategy may seem, it is anything but intimate. The personal, being represented in impersonal, archetypal terms, becomes universal. This is by no means to say that Frida Kahlo was an ordinary person pretending to be extraordinary. Her devotion to this process was extraordinary. The performance was her reality.


其他女性自畫像畫家,她們大多不得不靠為富人繪製肖像來謀生,因此她們的自戀方式截然不同,因為她們需要說服贊助人,自己既能將他們描繪得光彩照人,又能讓人認出她們本人。維熱·勒布倫(Vigée Le Brun)預示了卡羅(Kahlo)的風格,她不僅在畫布上,也在現實生活中扮演自己的角色。為了將她那些身穿緊身胸衣、精心打理髮型的顧客帶入新古典主義的玫瑰色光暈中,她脫掉了自己的緊身胸衣,穿上了高腰白色薄紗長袍(robe en gaulle),這種長袍後來成為英吉利海峽兩岸新古典主義女性的標配。她沒有撲粉,也沒有捲曲自己的棕色頭髮,而是用絲巾纏繞頭部,而不是用珠寶和羽毛裝飾。兩人最大的區別在於,這位法國藝術家為一代人創造了一種風格,而卡羅的風格則只屬於她自己。維熱·勒布倫也刻意美化自己的形象;在她眾多的自畫像中,她的嘴總是畫得非常小,牙齒也比珍珠還小。更重要的是,她筆下的膚色極具誘惑力,這表明她即便麵對最蒼白的贊助人,也能做到同樣的事情。

弗里達·卡羅對描繪他人毫無興趣,只對自己感興趣。她為他人創作的肖像畫都顯得敷衍了事。格爾曼夫婦是她和里維拉作品的重要收藏家。當裡維拉為格爾曼夫人畫像時,他幾乎到了令人啼笑皆非的地步,將她那修長的身軀斜倚在畫布上,從右上角一直延伸到左下角,身著一件緊身的白色晚禮服。而卡羅則畫了一幅滑稽可笑的肖像,畫中一個金髮碧眼、穿著皮草大衣、面無表情、脖子幾乎看不見的女子,顯得有些慌亂。儘管她把自己描繪得令人難忘,卻把格爾曼夫人畫得毫無記憶點。妻子對自己形象的詮釋如此深刻,以至於當裡維拉為她畫像時,只能臨摹一個蒼白的版本。

卡洛生前雖然在紐約和巴黎的時尚圈擁有眾多追隨者,但她最廣為人知的身份是壁畫大師迭戈·裡維拉的異國風情妻子。裡維拉堅信世界正處於社會主義革命的邊緣;事實上,當時正在興起的是個人主義時代。如今看來,裡維拉的社會寫實主義顯得天真,而弗里達的預言卻無比精準。 《宇宙之愛的擁抱,大地(墨西哥)》,迭戈、我和索洛特先生(1949年)這幅畫中,迭戈被描繪成一個皮膚灰白、臃腫的嬰兒,躺在弗里達的膝上,如同聖母瑪利亞懷抱中的基督遺體一般。果不其然,卡羅過世50年後,她已成為名副其實的崇拜對象,既是口紅的代名詞,也是淡紫色女權主義的象徵。這完全是她應得的。



Louise Vigee le Brun Self Portrait 1787
Louise Vigée le Brun
Self-Portrait 1787
Other female self-portraitists, most of whom were obliged to earn their living producing portraits of richer people, flattered themselves in a very different way, because they needed to persuade their patrons that they could make them look glamorous and yet recognisable as them-selves. Vigée Le Brun prefigures Kahlo in that she performed the role in which she depicted herself in real life as well as on canvas. Anxious to bring her corsetted and coiffed clientele into the rosy glow of neoclassicism, she removed her own corset and donned the robe en gaulle, the high-waisted white muslin dress that was to become the uniform of the neoclassical female on both sides of the Channel. She wore her own brown hair unpowdered and uncurled, winding scarves about her head instead of decking it with jewels and feathers. The great difference between the two is that the French artist was inventing a style for a generation, whereas Kahlo’s style is reserved unto herself. Vigée Le Brun also falsified aspects of her representation; in her numerous self-portraits she always showed her mouth as tiny, her teeth no bigger than seed pearls. More importantly, the flesh tones are infinitely seductive, a sign that she could do as much for her sallowest patron.
Frida Kahlo was uninterested in portraying anyone but herself. Her portraits of other people are perfunctory. The Gelmans were important collectors of both her and Rivera’s work. When it was Rivera’s turn to paint Mrs Gelman, he permitted himself an almost laughable degree of flattery, draping her impossibly elongated figure in a clinging white evening gown obliquely across the canvas from upper-right corner to lower left. Kahlo produced a kit-cat portrait of a tizzy blonde in a fur coat, blankly full face and virtually neckless. Though she portrayed herself as unforgettable, she made Mrs Gelman entirely forgettable. So powerful was his wife’s version of her own image, that when Rivera painted her he gave himself no option but to reproduce a pallid version of it.
In her lifetime, though she had her following among style gurus in New York and Paris, Kahlo was famous principally as the exotic wife of the heroic muralist Diego Rivera. He believed that the world stood on the brink of socialist revolution; in fact, what was dawning was the age of individualism. Now it is Rivera’s social realism that seems naive, while Frida is right on the money. El Abrazo de Amor del Universo, la Tierra (México), Diego, Yo y el Señor Xolotl 1949 shows Diego as a grey-skinned bloated baby lying in Frida’s lap, like the body of Christ lying in the lap of the Virgin in a votive pietà. Sure enough, 50 years after her death Kahlo is the subject of a veritable cultus, patron saint of both lipstick and lavender feminism. It is no more than she deserved.

2025年11月16日 星期日

history of hand-knitting. 漸流行, 網紅輩出。台灣針織工業同業公會 · Taiwan Knitting Industry Association. History of knitting



history of hand-knitting. 漸流行, 網紅輩出。台灣針織工業同業公會 · Taiwan Knitting Industry Association. History of knitting


history of hand-knitting


Victoria and Albert Museum
https://www.vam.ac.uk › articles › the-history-of-hand-...



While the origins of knitting are unclear, we know it has been practised in many different parts of the world, over many centuries.

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台灣針織工業同業公會 · Taiwan Knitting Industry Association · 公會簡介 · 活動剪影 · VR 專區.

By the mid-nineteenth century, hand knitting was declining as part of the knitting industry but was increasing as a hobby. Printed knitting patterns ...

The Matisse Stories 1993 AND "Possession,"by A. S. Byatt. 'The Chinese Lobster',

The Matisse Stories 1993 AND "Possession,"by A. S. Byatt.  'The Chinese Lobster', 

admirers of "Possession," A. S. Byatt's award-winning "romance" about passionate poets and nosy scholars, need only open her slim new book, "The Matisse Stories," to find themselves in familiar territory. For despite the vast ...


The Matisse Stories Paperback – April 30, 1996


by A. S. Byatt (Author)

These three stories celebrate the eye even as they reveal its unexpected proximity to the heart. For if each of A.S. Byatt's narratives is in some way inspired by a painting of Henri Matisse, each is also about the intimate connection between seeing and feeling--about the ways in which a glance we meant to be casual may suddenly call forth the deepest reserves of our being. Beautifully written, intensely observed, The Matisse Stories is fiction of spellbinding authority.




"Full of delight and humor...The Matisse Stories is studded with brilliantly apt images and a fine sense for subtleties of conversation and emotion."--San Francisco Chronicle



From Library Journal


A best seller in England, where it was published in 1993, this beautifully illustrated volume contains three stories-each a sort of "still life" inspired by a particular Matisse painting-of seemingly ordinary women: a middle-aged teacher forced to play psychiatrist to her self-centered hairdresser; a cleaning woman with a passion for knitting; and a college dean discussing a case of sexual harassment with the accused over lunch in a Chinese restaurant. Byatt (Possession, LJ 11/1/90), who has been in the news lately for her principled stand against huge advances for literary fiction, is a consummate prose stylist, possessed of both perfect pitch for dialog and a painterly eye for the telling details that flesh out these characters and reveal their essential humanness. Highly recommended for fiction collections.

--David Sowd, formerly with Stark Cty. District Lib., Canton, Ohio

Copyright 1995 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.


Paperback: 144 pages

Publisher: Vintage; Reprint edition (April 30, 1996)

Language: English



'The Matisse Stories' - AS Byatt - The Independent

www.independent.co.uk/.../book-review-death-decay-and-hairdos-t...






1994/01/09 - The words are Matisse's, to be found in 'The Chinese Lobster', the best of the three stories in A S Byatt's new collection. They are quoted by a politically incorrect art historian, Perry Diss, who has been accused of assault by ...



The Matisse Stories by A. S. Byatt 1993收入三篇短篇小說,我多年前買中國上海某書店的翻譯本,可一直嫌中國版本加入太多Matisse的畫,造成"喧賓奪主" (塗壓過文)的效果。
今天可以接受,因為當時的定價約28元人民幣而已。而且,讀者中像我這種Matisse專家的,肯定比萬翻之一少。他們或許需要更多的背景知識,這最好寫篇數萬字的介紹,然而,這畢竟遠比"加圖"的方式更麻煩。
末篇'The Chinese Lobster', 據說最好,我讀完之後深思小說家的想像力與技倆,十幾年,詳評Byatt 的著名長篇小說 POSSESSION之翻譯,不意外,然而,有作品的人,才是真專家。
Each story is in some way inspired by a painting of Henri Matisse, each is also about the intimate connection between seeing and feeling -- about the ways in which a glance we meant to be casual may suddenly call forth the de...
PENGUIN.CO.UK



'WHAT I dream of, is an art of balance, of purity, of quietness, without any disturbing subjects, without worry, which may be, for everyone who works with the mind, for the businessman as much as for the literary artist, something soothing, something to calm the brain, something analogous to a good armchair which relaxes him from his bodily weariness . . .' The words are Matisse's, to be found in 'The Chinese Lobster', the best of the three stories in A S Byatt's new collection. ...



2025年11月15日 星期六

Bauhaus. Nicholas Fox Weber’s In The Bauhaus Group: Six Masters of Modernism)包浩斯人: 現代主義六大師傳奇, 葛羅培、克利、康丁斯基、約瑟夫.亞伯斯、安妮.亞伯斯、密斯凡德羅的真實故事


【追書時報 25】The Bauhaus Group: Six Masters of Modernism by Weber Nicholas Fox (2009-10-27) 中文版早已出版 《包浩斯人: 現代主義六大師傳奇, 葛羅培、克利、康丁斯基、約瑟夫.亞伯斯、安妮.亞伯斯、密斯凡德羅的真實故事》2011,生日的故事也可參考 youtube " 206 包浩斯群英(BAUHAUS, 1919-1933):簡介與導讀 2018-01-10 漢清講堂"
P is for Paul Klee
Born on 18 December 1879. Klee came from a generation that would shape the modern world. Albert Einstein (who published the Theory of Relativity in Bern in 1905) was born in March 1879, Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso in 1880 and 1881 respectively.
Anni Albers told the story of the celebrations at the Bauhaus for Klee’s fiftieth birthday in 1929 (as recounted in Nicholas Fox Weber’s In The Bauhaus Group: Six Masters of Modernism). Hiring a Junkers aeroplane, manufactured locally in Dessau, she and other students parachuted an angel-shaped package of gifts onto the roof of Klee’s house. Much as inspiration seemed to fall from the sky, so did praise; one collector at the time simply called him ‘our greatest German artist.’
安妮·阿爾伯斯講述了1929年包浩斯為克利慶祝五十歲生日的故事(尼古拉斯·福克斯·韋伯在其著作《包浩斯團體:六位現代主義大師》中對此有所記載)。她和其他學生租了一架在德紹當地製造的容克斯飛機,用降落傘將天使形狀的禮物包空投到克利家的屋頂上。靈感如同從天而降,讚譽也紛至沓來;當時一位收藏家稱他為「我們最偉大的德國藝術家」。
包浩斯人: 現代主義六大師傳奇, 葛羅培、克利、康丁斯基、約瑟夫.亞伯斯、安妮.亞伯斯、密斯凡德羅的真實故事
The Bauhaus Group: Six Masters of Modernism
作者:尼可拉斯.法克斯.韋伯
譯者:吳莉君
臉譜出版社
2011/06/23
The Bauhaus Group: Six Masters of Modernism by Weber Nicholas Fox (2009-10-27) Hardcover
參考
206 包浩斯群英(BAUHAUS, 1919-1933):簡介與導讀 2018-01-10 漢清講堂https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywF5VAkBsxM&t=67s

Bauhaus

adj.
Of, relating to, or characteristic of a 20th-century school of design, the aesthetic of which was influenced by and derived from techniques and materials employed especially in industrial fabrication and manufacture.
[German, an architecture school founded by Walter Gropius : Bau, construction, architecture (from Middle High German , building, from Old High German, from būan, to dwell, settle) + Haus, house (from Middle High German hūs, from Old High German).]


Typography by Herbert Bayer above the entrance to the workshop block of the Bauhaus, Dessau, 2005.
Bauhaus ("House of Building" or "Building School") is the common term for the Staatliches Bauhaus , a school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught. It operated from 1919 to 1933.
The Bauhaus school was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar. In spite of its name, and the fact that its founder was an architect, the Bauhaus did not have an architecture department during the first years of its existence. The Bauhaus style became one of the most influential currents in Modernist architecture and modern design.[1] The Bauhaus had a profound influence upon subsequent developments in art, architecture, graphic design, interior design, industrial design, and typography.
The school existed in three German cities (Weimar from 1919 to 1925, Dessau from 1925 to 1932 and Berlin from 1932 to 1933), under three different architect-directors: Walter Gropius from 1919 to 1927, Hannes Meyer from 1927 to 1930 and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe from 1930 to 1933, when the school was closed by the Nazi regime.
The changes of venue and leadership resulted in a constant shifting of focus, technique, instructors, and politics. When the school moved from Weimar to Dessau, for instance, although it had been an important revenue source, the pottery shop was discontinued. When Mies van der Rohe took over the school in 1930, he transformed it into a private school, and would not allow any supporters of Hannes Meyer to attend it.

Contents

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Bauhaus and German modernism

For more details on this topic, see New Objectivity (architecture).

The Bauhaus
Defeat in World War I, the fall of the German monarchy and the abolition of censorship under the new, liberal Weimar Republic allowed an upsurge of radical experimentation in all the arts, previously suppressed by the old regime. Many Germans of left-wing views were influenced by the cultural experimentation that followed the Russian Revolution, such as constructivism. Such influences can be overstated: Gropius himself did not share these radical views, and said that Bauhaus was entirely apolitical.[2] Just as important was the influence of the 19th century English designer William Morris, who had argued that art should meet the needs of society and that there should be no distinction between form and function.[3]. Thus the Bauhaus style, also known as the International Style, was marked by the absence of ornamentation and by harmony between the function of an object or a building and its design.
However, the most important influence on Bauhaus was modernism, a cultural movement whose origins lay as far back as the 1880s, and which had already made its presence felt in Germany before the World War, despite the prevailing conservatism. The design innovations commonly associated with Gropius and the Bauhaus - the radically simplified forms, the rationality and functionality, and the idea that mass-production was reconcilable with the individual artistic spirit - were already partly developed in Germany before the Bauhaus was founded. The German national designers' organization Deutscher Werkbund was formed in 1907 by Hermann Muthesius to harness the new potentials of mass production, with a mind towards preserving Germany's economic competitiveness with England. In its first seven years, the Werkbund came to be regarded as the authoritative body on questions of design in Germany, and was copied in other countries. Many fundamental questions of craftsmanship vs. mass production, the relationship of usefulness and beauty, the practical purpose of formal beauty in a commonplace object, and whether or not a single proper form could exist, were argued out among its 1870 members (by 1914).
The entire movement of German architectural modernism was known as Neues Bauen. Beginning in June 1907, Peter Behrens' pioneering industrial design work for the German electrical company AEG successfully integrated art and mass production on a large scale. He designed consumer products, standardized parts, created clean-lined designs for the company's graphics, developed a consistent corporate identity, built the modernist landmark AEG Turbine Factory, and made full use of newly developed materials such as poured concrete and exposed steel. Behrens was a founding member of the Werkbund, and both Walter Gropius and Adolf Meier worked for him in this period.
The Bauhaus was founded at a time when the German zeitgeist ("spirit of the times") had turned from emotional Expressionism to the matter-of-fact New Objectivity. An entire group of working architects, including Erich Mendelsohn, Bruno Taut and Hans Poelzig, turned away from fanciful experimentation, and turned toward rational, functional, sometimes standardized building. Beyond the Bauhaus, many other significant German-speaking architects in the 1920s responded to the same aesthetic issues and material possibilities as the school. They also responded to the promise of a "minimal dwelling" written into the new Weimar Constitution. Ernst May, Bruno Taut, and Martin Wagner, among others, built large housing blocks in Frankfurt and Berlin. The acceptance of modernist design into everyday life was the subject of publicity campaigns, well-attended public exhibitions like the Weissenhof Estate, films, and sometimes fierce public debate.

Bauhaus and Vkhutemas

Main article: Vkhutemas
Vkhutemas, the Russian state art and technical school founded in 1920 in Moscow, has been compared to Bauhaus. Founded a year after the Bauhaus school Vkhutemas has close parallels to the German Bauhaus in its intent, organization and scope. The two schools were the first to train artist-designers in a modern manner.[4] Both schools were state-sponsored initiatives to merge the craft tradition with modern technology, with a Basic Course in aesthetic principles, courses in color theory, industrial design, and architecture.[4] Vkhutemas was a larger school than the Bauhaus,[5] but it was less publicised and consequently, is less familiar to the West.[6]
With the internationalism of modern architecture and design, there were many exchanges between the Vkhutemas and the Bauhaus.[7] The second Bauhaus director Hannes Meyer attempted to organise an exchange between the two schools, while Hinnerk Scheper of the Bauhaus collaborated with various Vkhutein members on the use of colour in architecture. In addition, El Lissitzky's book Russia - an Architecture for World Revolution published in German in 1930 featured several illustrations of Vkhutemas/Vkhutein projects.

History of the Bauhaus

Bauhaus and its Sites in Weimar and Dessau*
UNESCO World Heritage Site

Bauhaus Dessau Workshop
State Party Germany
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, iv, vi
Reference 729
Region** Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription 1996 (20th Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List.
** Region as classified by UNESCO.

Weimar

The school was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar in 1919 as a merger of the Grand Ducal School of Arts and Crafts and the Weimar Academy of Fine Art. Its roots lay in the arts and crafts school founded by the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach in 1906 and directed by Belgian Art Nouveau architect Henry van de Velde.[8] When van de Velde was forced to resign in 1915 because he was Belgian, he suggested Gropius, Hermann Obrist and August Endell as possible successors. In 1919, after delays caused by the destruction of World War I and a lengthy debate over the ideological and socio-economic reconciliation of the fine arts and the applied arts (an issue which remained a defining one throughout the school's existence), Gropius was made the director of a new institution integrating the two called the Bauhaus.[9] In the pamphlet for an April 1919 exhibition entitled "Exhibition of Unknown Architects", Gropius proclaimed his goal as being "to create a new guild of craftsmen, without the class distinctions which raise an arrogant barrier between craftsman and artist." The early intention was for the Bauhaus to be a combined architecture school, crafts school, and academy of the arts. In 1919 Swiss painter Johannes Itten, German-American painter Lyonel Feininger, and German sculptor Gerhard Marcks, along with Gropius, comprised the faculty of the Bauhaus. By the following year their ranks had grown to include German painter, sculptor and designer Oskar Schlemmer and Swiss painter Paul Klee, joined in 1922 by Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky. A tumultuous year at the Bauhaus, 1922 also saw the move of Dutch painter Theo van Doesburg to Weimar to promote De Stijl ("The Style"), and a visit to the Bauhaus by Russian Constructivist artist and architect El Lissitzky [10]
From 1919 to 1922 the school was shaped by the pedagogical and aesthetic ideas of Johannes Itten, who taught the Vorkurs or 'preliminary course' that was the introduction to the ideas of the Bauhaus.[11] Itten was heavily influenced in his teaching by the ideas of Franz Cižek and Friedrich Wilhelm August Froebel an in respect to aesthetics by the work of the Blaue Reiter group in Munich as well as the work of Austrian Expressionist Oskar Kokoschka. The influence of German Expressionism favoured by Itten was analogous in some ways to the fine arts side of the ongoing debate. This influence culminated with the addition of Der Blaue Reiter founding member Wassily Kandinsky to the faculty and ended when Itten resigned in late 1922. Itten was replaced by the Hungarian designer László Moholy-Nagy, who rewrote the Vorkurs with a leaning towards the New Objectivity favored by Gropius, which was analogous in some ways to the applied arts side of the debate. Although this shift was an important one, it did not represent a radical break from the past so much as a small step in a broader, more gradual socio-econimic movement that had been going on at least since 1907 when van de Velde had argued for a craft basis for design while Hermann Muthesius had begun implementing industrial prototypes.[12]
Gropius was not necessarily against Expressionism, and in fact himself in the same 1919 pamphlet proclaiming this "new guild of craftsmen, with out the class snobbery," described "painting and sculpture rising to heaven out of the hands of a million craftsmen, the crystal symbol of the new faith of the future." By 1923 however, Gropius was no longer evoking images of soaring Romanesque cathedrals and the craft-driven aesthetic of the "Völkisch movement," instead declaring "we want an architecture adapted to our world of machines, radios and fast cars."[13] Gropius argued that a new period of history had begun with the end of the war. He wanted to create a new architectural style to reflect this new era. His style in architecture and consumer goods was to be functional, cheap and consistent with mass production. To these ends, Gropius wanted to reunite art and craft to arrive at high-end functional products with artistic pretensions. The Bauhaus issued a magazine called Bauhaus and a series of books called "Bauhausbücher". Since the country lacked the quantity of raw materials that the United States and Great Britain had, they had to rely on the proficiency of its skilled labor force and ability to export innovative and high quality goods. Therefore designers were needed and so was a new type of art education. The school’s philosophy stated that the artist should be trained to work with the industry.
Weimar was in the German state of Thuringia, and the Bauhaus school received state support from the Social Democrat-controlled Thuringian state government. In February 1924, the Social Democrats lost control of the state parliament to the Nationalists. The Ministry of Education placed the staff on six-month contracts and cut the school's funding in half. They had already been looking for alternative sources of funding. Together with the Council of Masters Gropius announced the closure of the Bauhaus from the end of March 1925. After the Bauhaus moved to Dessau, a school of industrial design with teachers and staff less antagonistic to the conservative political regime remained in Weimar. This school was eventually known as the Technical University of Architecture and Civil Engineering, and in 1996 changed its name to Bauhaus University Weimar.

Dessau

Gropius's design for the Dessau facilities was a return to the futuristic Gropius of 1914 that had more in common with the International style lines of the Fagus Factory than the stripped down Neo-classical of the Werkbund pavilion or the Völkisch Sommerfeld House.[14] The Dessau years saw a remarkable change in direction for the school. According to Elaine Hoffman, Gropius had approached the Dutch architect Mart Stam to run the newly-founded architecture program, and when Stam declined the position, Gropius turned to Stam's friend and colleague in the ABC group, Hannes Meyer.
Meyer became director when Gropius resigned in February 1928, and brought the Bauhaus its two most significant building commissions, both of which still exist: five apartment buildings in the city of Dessau, and the headquarters of the Federal School of the German Trade Unions (ADGB) in Bernau. Meyer favored measurements and calculations in his presentations to clients, along with the use of off-the-shelf architectural components to reduce costs, and this approach proved attractive to potential clients. The school turned its first profit under his leadership in 1929.
But Meyer also generated a great deal of conflict. As a radical functionalist, he had no patience with the aesthetic program, and forced the resignations of Herbert Bayer, Marcel Breuer, and other long-time instructors. As a vocal Communist, he encouraged the formation of a communist student organization. In the increasingly dangerous political atmosphere, this became a threat to the existence of the Dessau school. Meyer was also compromised by a sexual scandal involving one of his students, and Gropius fired him in 1930.

Berlin

Although neither the Nazi Party nor Hitler himself had a cohesive architectural policy before they came to power in 1933, Nazi writers like Wilhelm Frick and Alfred Rosenberg had already labeled the Bauhaus "un-German" and criticized its modernist styles, deliberately generating public controversy over issues like flat roofs. Increasingly through the early 1930s, they characterized the Bauhaus as a front for communists and social liberals. Indeed, a number of communist students loyal to Meyer moved to the Soviet Union when he was fired in 1930.
Even before the Nazis came to power, political pressure on Bauhaus had increased. But the Nazi regime was determined to crack down on what it saw as the foreign, probably Jewish influences of "cosmopolitan modernism." Despite Gropius's protestations that as a war veteran and a patriot his work had no subversive political intent, the Berlin Bauhaus was closed in April 1933. Mies van der Rohe was expelled from Germany. (The closure, and the response of Mies van der Rohe, is fully documented in Elaine Hochman's Architects of Fortune.) Curiously, however, some Bauhaus influences lived on in Nazi Germany. When Hitler's chief engineer, Fritz Todt, began opening the new autobahn (highways) in 1935, many of the bridges and service stations were "bold examples of modernism" - among those submitting designs was Mies van der Rohe.[15]

Architectural output


Bauhaus building in Chemnitz
The paradox of the early Bauhaus was that, although its manifesto proclaimed that the ultimate aim of all creative activity was building, the school did not offer classes in architecture until 1927. The single most profitable tangible product of the Bauhaus was its wallpaper.
During the years under Gropius (1919–1927), he and his partner Adolf Meyer observed no real distinction between the output of his architectural office and the school. So the built output of Bauhaus architecture in these years is the output of Gropius: the Sommerfeld house in Berlin, the Otte house in Berlin, the Auerbach house in Jena, and the competition design for the Chicago Tribune Tower, which brought the school much attention. The definitive 1926 Bauhaus building in Dessau is also attributed to Gropius. Apart from contributions to the 1923 Haus am Horn, student architectural work amounted to un-built projects, interior finishes, and craft work like cabinets, chairs and pottery.
In the next two years under Meyer, the architectural focus shifted away from aesthetics and towards functionality. There were major commissions: one by the city of Dessau for five tightly designed "Laubenganghäuser" (apartment buildings with balcony access), which are still in use today, and another for the headquarters of the Federal School of the German Trade Unions (ADGB) in Bernau bei Berlin. Meyer's approach was to research users' needs and scientifically develop the design solution.
Mies van der Rohe repudiated Meyer's politics, his supporters, and his architectural approach. As opposed to Gropius's "study of essentials", and Meyer's research into user requirements, Mies advocated a "spatial implementation of intellectual decisions", which effectively meant an adoption of his own aesthetics. Neither van der Rohe nor his Bauhaus students saw any projects built during the 1930s.
The popular conception of the Bauhaus as the source of extensive Weimar-era working housing is not accurate. Two projects, the apartment building project in Dessau and the Törten row housing also in Dessau, fall in that category, but developing worker housing was not the first priority of Gropius nor Mies. It was the Bauhaus contemporaries Bruno Taut, Hans Poelzig and particularly Ernst May, as the city architects of Berlin, Dresden and Frankfurt respectively, who are rightfully credited with the thousands of socially progressive housing units built in Weimar Germany. In Taut's case, the housing may still be seen in south-west Berlin, is still occupied, and can be reached by going easily from the U-Bahn stop Onkel Toms Hütte.

Impact


The Engel House in the White City of Tel Aviv. Architect: Zeev Rechter, 1933. A residential building that has become one of the symbols of Modernist architecture. The first building in Tel Aviv to be built on pilotis.
The Bauhaus had a major impact on art and architecture trends in Western Europe, the United States, Canada and Israel (particularly in White City, Tel Aviv) in the decades following its demise, as many of the artists involved fled, or were exiled, by the Nazi regime. Tel Aviv, in fact, has been named to the list of world heritage sites by the UN due to its abundance of Bauhaus architecture[16][17]; it had some 4000 Bauhaus buildings erected from 1933 on.
Walter Gropius, Marcel Breuer, and László Moholy-Nagy re-assembled in Britain during the mid 1930s to live and work in the Isokon project before the war caught up with them. Both Gropius and Breuer went to teach at the Harvard Graduate School of Design and worked together before their professional split. The Harvard School was enormously influential in America in the late 1920s and early 1930s, producing such students as Philip Johnson, I.M. Pei, Lawrence Halprin and Paul Rudolph, among many others.
In the late 1930s, Mies van der Rohe re-settled in Chicago, enjoyed the sponsorship of the influential Philip Johnson, and became one of the pre-eminent architects in the world. Moholy-Nagy also went to Chicago and founded the New Bauhaus school under the sponsorship of industrialist and philanthropist Walter Paepcke. This school became the Institute of Design, part of the Illinois Institute of Technology. Printmaker and painter Werner Drewes was also largely responsible for bringing the Bauhaus aesthetic to America and taught at both Columbia University and Washington University in St. Louis. Herbert Bayer, sponsored by Paepcke, moved to Aspen, Colorado in support of Paepcke's Aspen projects at the Aspen Institute. In 1953, Max Bill, together with Inge Aicher-Scholl and Otl Aicher, founded the Ulm School of Design|Hochschule für Gestaltung in Ulm, Germany (HfG Ulm), a design school in the tradition of the Bauhaus. The school is notable for its inclusion of semiotics as a field of study. The school closed in 1968, but the ′Ulm Model′ concept continues to influence international design education.[18]
One of the main objectives of the Bauhaus was to unify art, craft, and technology. The machine was considered a positive element, and therefore industrial and product design were important components. Vorkurs ("initial" or "preliminary course") was taught; this is the modern day "Basic Design" course that has become one of the key foundational courses offered in architectural and design schools across the globe. There was no teaching of history in the school because everything was supposed to be designed and created according to first principles rather than by following precedent.
One of the most important contributions of the Bauhaus is in the field of modern furniture design. The ubiquitous Cantilever chair by Dutch designer Mart Stam, using the tensile properties of steel, and the Wassily Chair designed by Marcel Breuer are two examples.
The physical plant at Dessau survived World War II and was operated as a design school with some architectural facilities by the German Democratic Republic. This included live stage productions in the Bauhaus theater under the name of Bauhausbühne ("Bauhaus Stage"). After German reunification, a reorganized school continued in the same building, with no essential continuity with the Bauhaus under Gropius in the early 1920s[19]. In 1979 Bauhaus-Dessau College started to organize postgraduate programs with participants from all over the world. This effort has been supported by the Bauhaus-Dessau Foundation which was founded in 1974 as a public institution.
American art schools have also rediscovered the Bauhaus school. The Master Craftsman Program at Florida State University bases its artistic philosophy on Bauhaus theory and practice.

Gallery







包浩斯90年 全球推紀念展
美國觀念藝術家鮑德沙里把德國克里費爾德的一棟包浩斯風格的別墅,以「完全裝置」的手法,整理成一件藝術品。圖為經過裝置藝術整理後,別墅的內觀與外觀。
(歐新社)
具有傳奇色彩的包浩斯運動今年屆滿90周年,威瑪、柏林、東京、紐約等地將推出紀念展,並發行數量空前的相關新書。
包浩斯(Bauhaus)是德國國立包浩斯學校的通稱。它是一所前衛藝術暨建築學校,講授並發展設計教育,1919年由建築師華特‧葛羅佩斯(Walter Gropius,1883年─1969年)創於德國威瑪,熱潮持續至1933年。
包浩斯學校對現代建築學影響深遠,如今包浩斯不單指一所學校,而是一種建築流派或風格的統稱,著重於結合建築造型與實用機能。在建築之外,它對工業設計、現代戲劇及美術等領域也都有深遠的影響。
沮喪抑鬱的時代,世人總渴望靈光乍現所迸發的迷人力量。葛羅佩斯當年認為,一次大戰後的慘況是「人類歷史大災難」。為力挽狂瀾,大膽創辦具烏托邦色彩,卻 兼顧實用的包浩斯學校,締造文化奇蹟,影響延續至今。1996年,聯合國教科文組織將威瑪的包浩斯風格建築物列為世界文化遺產。葛羅佩斯當時年僅35歲, 決定拋開傳統,卻又以絕對傳統的方式,試著扛起社會責任。1919年3月10日,他申請在威瑪設校,4月12日獲准。同時他撰寫了視野廣闊的宣言,宣告全 面顛覆美學,也就是真正的革命。