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Issey Miyake’s innovative clothing line
Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please collections were launched in 1993. Made from single pieces of high quality 100% polyester fabric, Pleats Please
clothing is innovative in its process: the clothes are first cut and
sewn together from fabric that is nearly three times larger than the
finished item of clothing, then sandwiched between sheets of paper and
hand fed into a pleats machine. From tube dresses to cardigans, skirts,
shirts, or elastic-waisted pants: the clothes emerge with permanent
pleats. This industrial process allows both texture and form to be
created at the same time. Vertical pleating is used to create different
effects and architectural shapes. Pleats Please clothes
are very functional and practical; they store easily, travel well,
require no ironing, can be machine-washed, and dry within hours. Shapes
are simple, and the colors and prints diverse (a set of basic colors is
available each season, plus seasonal colors and prints). The clothes’
simple beauty, comfort, lightness, and ease of care have changed the way
many women all over the world dress.
For the first time, the story of this revolutionary line of clothing is being told. The concept of Pleats Please Issey Miyake
is explored through a vast array of texts and images, tracing its
journey from inception, through material development, to its public
reception. The explanation of its evolution also includes, also for the
first time, a section not only revealing the creation of the original thread — but also the pleating process!
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Pleats Please dresses. On the left is the dress when worn.
© Yasuaki Yoshinaga
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Pleats Please captured by Francis Giacobetti
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